In WA we are naturally drawn to our glorious coast and the adventure of the outback. In between is where the green wheat turns golden, waving in the breeze, where the canola is so bright it seems to generate its own light, and the granite rocks rise out of the flat plains. This is the wheatbelt, and we are driving the 800 km-long Wheatbelt Way.

The Wheatbelt shires, such as Dowerin, Mukinbudin, Nungarin, Koorda, and Wyalkatchem, came together to create a drive trail that connects towns and explores amazing rock formations in the region. They designed a route taking in as many granite rocks as possible, culminating in a very useful app.

After refuelling ourselves at the Toodyay Bakery, we were ready for an epic road trip. The first town and kickoff point for the Wheatbelt Way is Dowerin, home of the famous Dowerin Machinery Field Days. We drove 26 km from Dowerin to our first campsite at Minnivale. This community of around 40 residents on a train line has a church built in 1925 and a few other buildings. We took time exploring the streets, including the abandoned bakery with a large bread oven still on site. For the railway buffs, the old wheat silo is an annex of the Bassendean Railway Museum. You need to contact the Shire of Dowerin (08 9631 1202) to make an appointment to visit the museum.

The campground is a grassy area with a flushing toilet and cold shower. Like most of the campsites on this road trip, there are no camping fees. Accompanying us were about five campers and caravanners.

Wyalkatchem was a good place for morning coffee before heading north to Koorda and east to Bencubbin. Along the way, we stopped at pioneering relics like Wyalkatchem Well and Cowcowing Cemetery to break the journey and give our legs a stretch. We wandered the sites, imagining what it was like for the early farmers out here. The app has excellent information about these locations, with 24 interpretive sites on the drive trail.

In spring the Koorda Native Flora Reserve, flowering plants (over fifty species) burst into a mass of colour, including the beautiful Koorda Rose. It’s a good place to get out the birdwatching binoculars.

Gabbin is another abandoned railway siding town that offers a free campsite with toilet and shower facilities.

Out of Bencubbin are two spots well worth the side trip. Marshall Rock is an obvious landmark, and on the eastern side of the rock is Pergande Sheep Yards. This place is a tribute to farming ingenuity. To build sheep yards, the Pergande family used locally available flat slabs of granite. They stood the slabs upright to make yards and even narrowing sheep chutes. Interpretive signage explains what life was like for the pioneering Ted and Annie Pergande.

Marshall Rock is a nice spot to camp with the picnic tables, fire pits, and drop toilet provided. Marshall Rock, like many large granite formations in the wheatbelt, is climbable if taken carefully. For the nimble-footed, the rewards are fine vistas of patchwork paddocks of wheat, barley, or canola, interspersed with dark green nature reserves.

Beacon is the northernmost town on the Wheatbelt Way route. We drive 30 km further to the impressive Billiburning Rock. You can also free camp here. Further north again is the isolated wilderness that is Karroun Hill Nature Reserve. We will have to come back another time to explore this massive nature reserve. At the time, emergency services were packing up after the sensational search and rescue of a missing German backpacker. It is a reminder that this is a remote area and not to be undertaken lightly, as phone coverage is dodgy.

Further on, we stopped at Datjoin Rock and well. The well was dug by sandalwood cutters in the early 1900s. Winding through the dirt track, we see some lovely campsites amongst the trees and rocks. This is a no caravan zone, and the track is four-wheel drive the further you get in due to the washouts and tree roots. The most interesting rock is shaped like a giant potato. As you wander around, it is hard to believe how such a big, oddly shaped rock is so precariously balanced. In spring the area is swarming with wildflowers, including everlastings and orchids.

Bonnie Rock is the next train siding settlement that features a free campsite with the addition of brand-new toilets and hot showers.The temptation to camp here is strong, but we push on.

Next stop: Beringbooding Rock, the site of an impressive engineering feat. When it rains, water runs off the rock and is channelled by a stone rim into the biggest rock water catchment tank in Australia. It was built in 1937. Once we set up camp in the designated campground, it was time to explore on foot. After the recent rains, it was a bit boggy in places. The water running off the granite feeds the soil around the rock, providing the perfect habitat for a myriad of wildflowers.

We climb the granite, avoiding the wet slippery bits, passing by interesting smaller naturally sculptured rocks. On top, the view forms a stunning 360° panorama. The patchwork of paddocks stretches into the distance. The green wheat is dominant with yellow canola in between. Some paddocks are in fallow, resting for a season. We can see another granite rock in the distance.

From our research of Beringbooding Rock, there was one spot we wanted to get to. Kangaroo Hole is a large gnamma hole backed by a massive smooth rock wall. In the afternoon the rock face is beautifully reflected in a pool of water, a popular spot for that Instagram shot.

The large amount of water collected means the Beringbooding Rock campground has flushing toilets, a rarity when it comes to free campsites.

The stars at night out here in the wheatbelt are mesmerising. The clear night sky is so dark, the Milky Way illuminates the surrounding landscape.

We have been to Elachbutting Rock before. It is probably the most famous rock on the trail. The road around Elachbutting is one way. On the northern side of the rock are two of the most spectacular formations. We have all heard of Wave Rock near Hyden. Well, Elachbutting has one also, but without the crowds. Near the wave is Monty’s Pass, a 30 m tunnel formed by a rockslide. At the end the sun lights up the red rock. In the middle of the tunnel, it does get dark, so take a torch.

The campgrounds and a short four-wheel drive track are on the other side of the rock. We didn’t stay here because we had only travelled 29 km that day. Our destination was Eaglestone Rock, which isn’t officially on the Wheatbelt Way, but we think it should be. Driving down the gravel road, we arrive at a large salt lake known as Lake Brown. Eaglestone Rock sits on the banks of the lake. North of the rock is a large campground. It has a drop toilet as its only facility. Some of the rock campsites are dog friendly, but others aren’t. This is one of the ‘no dogs’ ones.

At sunrise, the rocks next to the white encrusted lake light up in golden hues. The salt sparkles in the early morning light. Well worth an early morning stroll.

After capturing the sunrise magic hour, it’s time to hit the road. We stopped in at Sandford Rocks for another granite experience. It is also a wildflower hotspot.

It’s been a couple of days of remote camping, so we stocked up a bit in Westonia. Like all the towns on the Wheatbelt Way, Westonia has a caravan park, if that’s your preference. Wheatbelt towns generally service the farming districts, but Westonia has an open-cut gold mine. Westonia’s old school serves as a 48-hour free campsite for self-contained rigs.

Like Sandford Rocks, Boodalin Soak is a sea of wildflowers. Historically, this was a place where early gold prospectors stopped on the way from York to Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie. Weira Reserve is similar in that there are permanent gnamma holes and wildflowers.

Next on our town hit list was Mukinbudin and a quick coffee stop, then onward to Nungarin. Just 15 km out of Nungarin is the historic homestead of Mangowine.

Before the train went through to Kalgoorlie, horse-drawn coaches transported people from inn to inn. Mangowine Homestead was one of these inns. Built in 1876, the National Trust building has been restored to its former glory. It costs $4 to explore the homestead, and there is a caravan park in the grounds with powered sites.

Tiny Nungarin is a fascinating town that deserves some exploration. McCorry’s Hotel, built in 1913, has been restored for overnight accommodation and caravan park facilities. The original owner thought the new railway line would pass through his property, but sadly, it didn’t.

Nungarin was a base for a strategically important army depot and workshop during World War Two. Visitors can check out the Nungarin Heritage Machinery and Army Museum, featuring a huge collection of old tractors, World War Two military vehicles, and memorabilia. It is housed in massive hangars. I have a personal interest in Nungarin, as my grandfather, a mechanic, was stationed here with 12,000 other personnel during the war. My grandmother and mother would stay at McCorry’s to visit him. The museum is open every day from 9am to 4pm and has a café. Once a month, they host an atmospheric campfire dinner.

On the way home from an epic road trip, we popped into Billyacatting Hill Nature Reserve to stretch our legs on the 2.4 km walk trail. Interestingly, the nearest town of Trayning comes from the local Aboriginal name meaning ‘snake crawling in the grass near campsite.’ Luckily, we didn’t see any of those snakes during our trip, being the middle of winter. But as it warms up, I reckon they will be out and about.

This road trip has so much to see and explore. The towns are welcoming, where you can stock up with supplies as well as enjoy great coffee. Accommodation varies from brilliant free campsites to historic country hotels. Roads along the Wheatbelt Way are two-wheel drive friendly. Just be aware that there are well-maintained gravel sections, so drive to the conditions.

Next time you hanker for a road trip with a difference, give the Wheatbelt Way a go.

By Jane Pelusey