With its elaborately branched gorges and sandstone cliffs rising like battlements up to 100 metres high on its eastern side, the Kennedy Ranges are indeed quite a formidable sight. As an increasing number of visitors to this quite remote National Park are finding, the majestic eroded landscape here is a mixture of spectacular cliffs and gorges, eerie canyons, ancient marine fossils, strange honeycomb formations, an array of colourful gemstones, and an extensive Aboriginal history. 

Pushed up from an ancient seabed in the remote interior of Western Australia’s north-west, the Kennedys have been dominating the flat surrounding plains out here for thousands of years. The stark beauty of this rugged, eroded plateau, some 800 kilometres north of Perth and 160 kilometres east of Carnarvon, runs in a north/south direction from near the small outback community of Gascoyne Junction.

Access to the quite well-developed eastern side of the park is via a well-maintained gravel road north from the small township of Gascoyne Junction, which has now splendidly recovered from the devastating floods of 2010 when parts of the town were totally destroyed. With some of it moved to higher ground, the town now has a beaut new roadhouse and a modern caravan park with ensuite options, a splendid campers’ kitchen, and cabin accommodation available.

On the northern outskirts of the town, the road crosses the formidable Gascoyne River, and if you are looking for a nice picnic spot around here, there are a couple of quite good options available. Just a few hundred metres from town, there is a signposted picnic area (level and partly shaded with the curious name of Hackers Hectare—no camping here) on the southern banks of the river. A much nicer spot, however, is another signposted picnic area on the north side of the river just 3 km from town. Here there is a beautiful, large, permanent waterhole in the Gascoyne River. This is a lovely spot to stop for a cuppa, and camping is allowed further along this splendid riverbank—all quite delightful, but be aware, there are no facilities provided here apart from an information shelter.

Forty-three kilometres north of the Gascoyne River, the road crosses the causeway of the quite picturesque Lyons River, and the turnoff to the Kennedy Range is another 3.5 km further on. The road north from Gascoyne Junction travels parallel to the Kennedy Range, whose flat top and eroded outline can be seen in the distance away to the west. Other small pillar-like breakaways are a feature of the landscape to the east, just south of the Lyons River.

On reaching the signposted turn into the Kennedy Ranges, the track, which is generally quite well maintained, heads west for approximately 12 km before reaching the base of the range. As you approach the mesa, its rough, somewhat eerie forms begin to stand out and take shape. The mass of craggy white-orange through to dark brown cliffs and gorges eating into the range are seen stark and tall above the flat surrounding plain—impressive indeed, especially in the early morning light.

There are four main parking areas lying at the base of the cliffs—the first (Temple Gorge day visitors’ car park) lies at the end of the main track leading into the range. Other tracks lead north and south along the eastern face of the range. At several parking areas, there are pit toilets provided. There is, however, only one designated camping area—Temple Gorge Campground (camp hosts are located here during the peak season, June to September) with toilets and a few tables/chairs scattered around, but no other facilities provided. Campfires are not permitted within the park (except a communal campfire and barbeque plate controlled by the camp host), so it is recommended that you bring a gas/fuel stove with you for cooking. All other camping equipment and supplies, including sufficient water for your stay, must also be brought in with you.

The quite well-spaced-out campsites here (some with part shade), set beneath the towering cliffs of the range, are really something quite special. The facilities are basic, but the experience of being curled up at the foot of these towering sandstone battlements is one not to be missed. During the peak winter season, the camp hosts here at the campground will often light up the communal fire late in the day, with campers encouraged to join a friendly daily happy hour to discuss aspects of the park with your hosts and exchange travel stories and experiences with fellow campers.

Visitors should not be in a rush when they visit the Kennedys, as there is much to see and keep you occupied for at least a few days. If you have a reasonable level of fitness, along this eastern section of the range, there are a number of canyons and gorges, including Honeycomb, Temple, and Drapers Gorges, which are all well worth exploring. Extensive views from the top of the range of the gorges and surrounding countryside accessed via an escarpment walk trail are well worth the effort you will put into getting to the top. The camp hosts, at the daily happy hour gathering, present certificates to those successfully conquering the demanding escarpment trail climb.

Remember, however, the slopes of these ranges are quite unstable, and extreme care is needed to climb the slippery inclines. There is also a great viewing spot north of the main gorge areas shown on the park map as ‘sunrise view’—a drive trail leads to the car park, and there is then a 150-metre walk/climb trail to this beaut elevated lookout spot. The thought of dragging yourself out of your sleeping bag to take in the sunrise, however, may not appeal to everyone, but rest assured those who make the effort are well rewarded with a truly wonderful and very colourful vista right along this eastern escarpment.

Huge marine fossils left over from the area’s seabed beginnings, as well as sections of what appears to be extruded lava, can be found in several gorges. Also quite remarkable are the strange lacy patterns, sometimes shaped into honeycomb formations, worn into the sandstone cliffs. Some of these strange forms have even been referred to as ‘Egyptian writing,’ but this is more the result of a creative imagination than having any real Egyptian background. In some spots, local birds find them ideal as ‘nesting boxes.’

On top of the range is a vast plateau of ancient dune fields. Here, seemingly endless rows of dry, waterless red sand dunes dominated by spinifex and some small shrubs are an eerie sight high up on top of this ancient escarpment. It is estimated that these dunes, measuring up to 18 metres high and 100 metres or more apart, may have been formed about 15,000 years ago during the last major arid period over this part of the continent. Today they support a variety of plants, including wattles, grevilleas, bottlebrush, and an occasional banksia.

Hidden away deep within the gorges, pools of water and evidence of seasonal waterfalls gouged into the rock faces can be found. Out here it doesn’t rain very often—an annual average of only 210 mm (8½ inches)—but when it does rain (especially from cyclonic depressions), the vertical cliffs and steep valleys must be a real sight to behold. Huge volumes of water pour down from the mountain’s catchment areas, are funnelled into narrow, raging torrents, and race to the bottom, where it is dispersed over the surrounding countryside.

For walking and climbing here, particularly over the crumbly sandstone and ironstone rocks, a good pair of walking boots and plenty of time is required—also remember to take drinking water. Drive trails lead to the three main gorges, or you can walk to each of them from the campground. There are trail markers along each of the gorge walks, which help to pick the easiest path.

By the way, for those visitors who may be uneasy about all the walk trail options here and would prefer a more relaxed visit, then don’t worry, as the scenic vista from your campsite or from the various short drive trails are enough by themselves to make a visit to the Kennedys most worthwhile. Just sit, put your feet up, and take it all in during the day, and at night enjoy the wonderful clear starry sky and perhaps even see a satellite or two pass overhead—just wonderful!

Apart from its scenic attractions, however, the Kennedy Range is also becoming well known for its semi-precious gemstones and petrified wood that can be seen as you explore the valleys and slopes of the range. Gemstones such as chalcedony and opalite can be quite readily seen, but fossicking and collecting rocks, gemstones, or fossils is not permitted. On the western side of the range, mining operations over many years have extracted mookaite (a type of jasper and used in jewellery) at the base of the Kennedy outcrop. This is the only known place in the world where mookaite can be found.

Large varieties of flora and fauna are also unexpected bonuses in an area that, on first glance, you would think would have little of either. Like many arid areas of Australia that can have highly variable rainfall, the flora and fauna patterns also vary depending on seasonal conditions. In some seasons without sufficient rain, seeds will not germinate, wildflowers are quite sparse, and in poor years, birds, needing ready access to water, will migrate out of the range only to return in large numbers when conditions are more favourable to them.

In and around the park, there have been over 100 species of birds (including wedge-tailed eagles and spinifex pigeons) identified, also 20 species of mammals (including euros, rock wallabies, bats and dunnarts), and 33 species of reptiles. Adding further colour to this outback landscape are around 400 different plants, including 82 blooming wildflowers, which are usually at their peak in August and September and can be found in and around the range. The best springtime floral displays are those that follow good rains in late summer and early to mid-autumn.

The Kennedy Range extends around 75 km in a north-south direction and is between 12 km and 25 km wide. The National Park, gazetted on 8th January 1993, originally covered an area of 141,660 hectares. This has increased to almost 320,000 hectares with the recent purchase of additional areas from local station properties surrounding the existing park boundaries. Whilst the development of facilities at the Kennedys is still in a quite early stage, this fascinating place in WA’s outback is now being discovered by an increasing number of travellers each year. As time goes on, its reputation as a place of real wilderness value is certain to attract even more visitors as they learn of the many quite unique attractions that the Kennedy Range has to offer. The Kennedys—a truly remarkable spot hidden away in the remote WA outback!

Aboriginal and Early European Occupation

Aboriginal history at the Kennedys is largely unrecorded, but occupation sites have been found both within and around the range. It is, however, known that this formidable geological structure seems to have separated the traditional lands of two Aboriginal tribes—the Maia people to the west and the Malgaru to the east. In particular, the freshwater springs on the western slopes of the mesa support abundant wildlife and would have been a good source of food and water. A number of artefacts that have been found in the area provide additional evidence of occupation as far back as 20,000 years ago. The Aboriginal name for the range is Mandatharra.

The surveys that have been carried out in and around the Kennedys have revealed almost 100 ancient Aboriginal sites in the area. Most are archaeological sites, but it is believed that a number of them are of ceremonial or mythological importance. Some very old rock art engravings (petroglyphs) can still be found by walkers with a keen eye in Drapers Gorge. These, however, are not good examples of this ancient art form, as they have been heavily weathered over the years, and it is quite difficult to decipher them.

Early European involvement here did not take place until 1858, when an expedition led by Francis Thomas Gregory discovered the Kennedy Range on 12 May 1858. It was subsequently named in honour of the then Governor of W.A., Arthur Edward Kennedy. Within 20 years of this expedition, pastoralists were also discovering this area of outback W.A. and, like the Aborigines before them, were taking advantage of the local springs and waterholes, as well as the nearby erratically flowing Lyons and Gascoyne Rivers, to establish their properties. The region in the late 1800s and early 1900s went on to become a prosperous wool-producing area, and today both sheep and cattle properties are seen right throughout the district.

Information Bay

The best time to visit the Kennedys is around late July to October (after the winter rains), when the usually dusty red landscape is covered in greenery, and carpets of wildflowers can often be seen across the plains.

Walk trails within the park are classified as class 3 and class 4 (including rough, crumbly, and unstable rock-hopping surfaces) requiring moderate to high levels of fitness.

There is a new, modern caravan park located at Gascoyne Junction (phone (08) 9943 0940) as well as overnight accommodation available at the Junction Hotel (phone (08) 9943 0504) just an hour’s drive away from the main eastern Kennedy Range car parks and walk trails. Flights and safari tours to the Kennedy Range are available. Enquire through local tourist centres in Exmouth and Carnarvon.

Within the National Park there are pit toilets provided at several car parks and at the Temple Gorge camping area, but there are no barbeque or other facilities available. Campfires are not permitted in the eastern section of the park (with the exception of one communal campfire and barbeque plate controlled by the camp host at the Temple Gorge campsite). No bins are provided— take all rubbish away with you.

A sealed road leads from Carnarvon to Gascoyne Junction. Other gravel roads out here are subject to corrugations. Campervans driven with care are quite ok, but only off-road (or sturdily built) caravans and camper trailers are recommended. Except after rain, the main eastern side of the Kennedy Range is accessible to all reasonably high clearance 2WD vehicles, including campervans and smaller mobile homes. A high clearance 4WD vehicle is required to explore the undeveloped and even more remote western side of the range.

Access to the western side of the Kennedy Range is either through Mt Sandiman property (on the north/east section of the range) and across the top of the range or from the Carnarvon to Gascoyne Junction Road—turn off to the north approximately 30 km west of Gascoyne Junction. The track across the top of the range is sandy and quite rough in sections—it is subject to windblown sand and closure—check with Parks and Wildlife Carnarvon (phone (08)99413754) for track conditions before attempting this section of the park. 

There are no entry fees to Kennedy Range National Park. Camping is $15.00 per adult ($10.00 concession) and $5.00 per child at the Temple Gorge Campground. The use of generators is allowed (within restricted hours). Drinking water is not available within the park.

As well as marine fossils, archaeologists as recently as the 1970s collected fossilised plant specimens, two of which were fruiting bodies thought to be members of the Proteaceae family. They, in fact, were found to be banksias. Further specimens were subsequently collected, with the result that two new banksia species have now been recorded. The existence of these fossils in the Kennedys represents the earliest known occurrence of banksias in Australia.

Remember, out here around the Kennedy Range, it is a semi-arid desert region. Take plenty of water, and when camping out, be prepared for cold nights and hot days. Daytime winter temperatures are usually in the high 20s and early 30s. In summer the average maximum is 40°C with many days of 45°C plus. It is estimated that around 250 million years ago this area was a shallow ocean basin off the edge of the ancient Australian continent. The Kennedy Range is a remnant of the land surface that elsewhere has, with the forces of nature over many years, been heavily eroded away to reveal the quite dramatic landscape seen today.

Fuel, basic mechanical assistance, accommodation, and food supplies are available at the small township of Gascoyne Junction, which has a population of around 40 people.

For more information: 

Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions. Carnarvon: (08) 9941 3754 Denham: (08) 9948 2226 Website: parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au/park/kennedy-range

Shire of Upper Gascoyne, 4 Scott Street, Gascoyne Junction. Phone (08) 9943 0988. National Park brochures are available from local information centres and from the camp host within the park.

Colin and Prue Kerr

This adventure can be found in the 133rd edition of Western 4W Driver at issuu.com