Connect

Connect your compressor to the battery (you will need to leave the car running for this otherwise you risk flattening the battery) making sure you get the POSITIVE (RED) and NEGATIVE (BLACK) clips attached to the corresponding battery terminals.

Remove

Remove the valve cover (keep it safe as it stop debris getting into the tyre valve)

Attach

Attach the air compressor hose to the valve.

Start

Start the compressor and start pumping up the tyre.

Check

Check the tyre pressure regularly with either the built in gauge or by using a stand-alone tyre gauge

Turn Off

Once you have reached the correct pressure turn off the compressor.

Disconnect

Remove the compressor hose and replace the valve cap.

Repeat

Repeat the process for all of the remaining tyres (don’t forget tyres on anything you are towing)

Sand / Beach

• When beach driving, know what the tides are doing and know when high and low tide are.
• Keep a careful watch for extra soft patches of sand or where there may be a large amount of seaweed underneath the sand.
• Watch for wave eroded sections of beach that may collapse under your vehicle.
• Fresh water streamlets can create deep vertical gullies.
• Be observant for items washed up onto the beach.
• Take particular care when driving on dunes as they can have sudden drop-offs or hide tyre damaging limestone outcrops.
• Negotiate coastal tracks with care and be aware that you may have to shovel wind-blown sand drifts off tracks to prevent driving at an extreme angle.
• Take care when driving over rocky sections as they can be razor sharp and do irreparable damage to tyres.

Gravel / Corrugations

• Ensure you engage 4WD (in an AWD engage the centre DIFF lock. Most Utes are 2WD until you engage 4H) to ensure the best possible road handling.
• Reduce your speed to suit the road conditions.
• Be aware that wash-aways (sections of road scoured out or damaged by fast moving water) can “jump up” out of no-where.
• Where corrugations are prevalent, reduce tyre pressure (across both tow vehicle and trailer/caravan. A simple way to check if your tyre pressure/speed is correct is to stop and feel the body of each shock absorber. If they are too hot to touch then your tyre pressure is too high and/or you are driving too fast.
• Allow extra time for braking.
• Stay vigilant of wandering stock and native animals.

General tips

• Always assume that a track is carrying two-way traffic and drive accordingly.
• If in doubt, turn around and find another route.
• Keep a safe distance between vehicles.
• Only one vehicle to tackle an obstacle at a time.
• Use UHF radios to communicate between vehicles if you are travelling in a convoy. Nominate a trip leader and someone to be “tail-end Charlie”.

If unsure of track conditions, STOP and WALK the section of track BEFORE driving through.

Is there any immediate danger to yourself, your occupants or the vehicle?

Ensure that there is no immediate risk.  This may involve moving occupants out of the vehicle and to a safe location away from the recovery.  You may need to position someone on the high ground if you are stuck in a gully, to warn other vehicles.

Have you let your tyres down enough for the conditions and the load in your vehicle?

Sometimes an extra couple of PSI can be all the difference.  The chances of rolling the tyre off the rim are low, as long as you keep your speed down, avoid wheel spin and sudden changes of direction.

Are you in 4WD? (remember an All Wheel Drive is NOT 4WD)

Remember All wheel drive is NOT 4WD.

Are you in LOW RANGE 4WD?

If you are in HIGH RANGE, you may need to switch to LOW RANGE

What equipment do you have available to start the recovery?

Unless there are other circumstances at play, your recovery methods should be:

1. Low range
2. Tyre pressure
3. Dig / Recovery boards
4. Kinetic recovery (winch or snatch strap)

Loosen each wheel nut

You will most likely need to apply a bit of force to do so. Loosen about 1/2 a turn.

Jack the vehicle up

Ensure that no part of your body is under the car when doing so. Refer to your owner’s manual to identify the correct jacking locations on your vehicle.  Raise your vehicle so it is high enough to remove the wheel.

Remove the wheel nuts and take off the wheel

Be aware that the wheel will be heavy. Lay it down flat to prevent it rolling away.

Line up the wheel studs with the new wheel

Gently push (it may need some wiggling)onto the wheel studs until they protrude through the holes in the rim.  Put all of the wheel nuts back on using just your hand until they are hand tight. Using your tyre iron, continue to tighten each nut in turn until you can no longer twist them with your force.

Lower the vehicle down on the jack

Ensuring no part of your body is under the vehicle, lower the vehicle down on the jack.  Check the tightness of each nut again using the tyre iron.  Retrieve your jack and stow it back in the vehicle. Put your flat tyre in the vehicle (or on the spare wheel carrier if you have one)

Fix that flat ASAP

Ensure you get your flat/damaged tyre repaired or replaced as soon as possible.

Where are you going?

It might sound obvious but it is the first question you need to ask yourself.  Not only that but if there are multiple ways to get there then which one are you taking and how are you coming back home again?

Why are you going?

Again, stating the obvious. Are you going fishing, hiking, chasing some waves or looking for gold? It could be as simple as looking for a nice shady spot near an amazing waterhole to pull up for a spell. What ever the reason, as long as it is clear because it becomes important further down.

What do you want to see, do, experience?

Are there particular locations or attractions you want to see or experience? How long do you intend spending at each spot?

Who is coming with you?

Is this a family holiday or a trip with mates? How many are joining you and how many vehicles are going to be in the convoy?  If there is a large group travelling together then its also a good idea to have an idea of individual skill sets.  Is anyone a nurse, who is mechanically minded, who can wow the crowd around the camp fire playing the spoons?

How long are you going for?

You will struggle to carry all the food, fuel and water you may need for an extended adventure without blowing your GVM/GCM.  Planning to carry what you need and identify where you can refuel/resupply is a better way.

Who has what?

Watch your weight. No, I am not worried about that donut you might be eying off but more interested in how much gear you might think you need to take.  If there are multiple vehicles going this is a great opportunity to share. There is no point in taking 4 chainsaws, 6 workshop level tool kits and 8 gazebos unless you actually need all that stuff. Work out what you need as a group and allocate.

Tyre pressure and selection

Having the right tyres (all terrain instead of highway or mud terrain tyres) and the correct tyre pressure is the difference between floating over the sand or bogging down.

Engage 4WD

Many think that you only engage 4WD when you start to get bogged down.  This is NOT correct. Engage 4WD BEFORE you drive out onto the sand.

Traction Control / ABS

Turn OFF traction and ABS.  These are life-saving when on the bitumen but when driving in sand they can be the cause of getting bogged.

Avoid wheel spin

If you start to spin your wheels, STOP.  Other than creating a sand storm you will achieve nothing more than getting further bogged.

Keep up your momentum

Controlled momentum is key. Avoid sudden braking and acceleration.

Avoid sharp turns.

If you need to turn around on a narrower stretch of beach, turn up and away from the water first.

Your turning circle will be greater than normal.

Stopping

Avoid using your brake when stopping unless you have to.  The sand will provide enough rolling resistance to bring you to stop without using them.

Get into the habit of rolling backwards and forwards a few times (about the length of your car) to compact the sand under your wheels before you get out.  This gives you a firmer surface from which to take off from when its time to move on.

Dunes

Be aware that sand dunes change quickly. Never assume the shape and terrain of a sand dune.

Always drive directly up and down the face of a dune

Check the depth and current

You are going to get wet. Before you take the plunge, observe the water flow.  If looks too fast for you to walk safely across it then stop. It is most likely going to be too dangerous and you should look for an alternative route. If the current is OK then take a sturdy stick with you and start wading.

You are checking the bottom of the water obstacle, looking for large rocks, holes and other instructions that may impede your progress across. Take note of the average depth of the water. Knowing the surface that you are going to be driving on is also very important. Is it sandy, gravel or rocky?

If your water obstacle is in the north of the country, you also need to take into account the potential presence of crocodiles, who like to hang out where humans and animals come down to the water’s edge. If in crocodile country, take extreme care when checking a water crossing (this may mean you cannot walk it).

Prepare your plan

Have a plan and communicate it to everyone involved.
What line (route) are you going to take to get across?
What potential obstacles are there that may impede the crossing?
What resources do you have available to aid you in getting out of the water crossing if things go wrong?
Who is going to be in the vehicle and who is observing?

Prepare your vehicle and the crossing

You have a plan and everyone knows what is happening. Depending on the depth of the crossing, there are things that you need to do to prepare your vehicle.

• If it is a deep crossing, fit a tarp across the front of the vehicle. This provides a shield for the radiator fan and assists in creating a “bow wave”. The bow wave creates a temporary gap between the water and the vehicle, allowing the radiator fan to work without being underwater.
• Fit your recovery devices.  Attach a tow or snatch strap to the front and rear of the vehicle.  Loop the straps up onto the vehicle so that they are not in the way but easily accessible. The last thing you want is to be trying to attach a d-shackle to your recovery points when they are under water.
• Open a window on the downstream side of the car and ensure that all doors are unlocked.
• Move anything that might be damaged by water up as high as you can get it.
• Give all the electric components under the bonnet a spray with water repellant like WD40.
• Mark obstacles with sticks (if possible) so that you have a visual reference.
• If the exit point looks challenging then it might be a good idea to have a winch point already setup.

The crossing

• In a manual vehicle, select 2nd and do not change gears when in the water. Ensure you are in 4WD (you may also need LOW range) Keep your speed constant and do not stop.
• In an automatic, select a gear (1st or 2nd) and engage 4WD (again LOW range may be required)

Once you have started the crossing and the vehicle is in the water, you are committed. DO NOT STOP.  You need to ensure that your speed is enough to create that bow wave we mentioned earlier.

When you reach the other side

Once you reach the other side and you are clear of the exit point:

• Stop and allow water to drain from the car.
• Pump the brakes a few times to dry them out.
• Remove any tarps or covers placed across the front of the vehicle.
• Remove your recovery equipment

What happens if it all goes wrong

If the worst should happen during a water crossing then you need to enact your recovery plan.

• If the car starts to get turned downstream, spin the wheel and apply power to get the nose pointing into the current as quickly as you can. If you are sliding sideways and get caught on something then there is a high risk of rolling.
• If you get stuck and the car starts to float away, unless you can attach it to an anchor point immediately you may need to sink it. That means opening a DOWNSTREAM door and letting water in. This is preferable to getting washed downstream and rolling.
• If the water is still then exit through the window.
• If the water is over the bonnet, you run the risk of the engine sucking water in. Turn it off immediately. This will also shut down all the electronics, preventing them from shorting out.
• If you get stuck in moving water, and the vehicle appears to be safe, never assume. Conditions can change very quickly.

Know where you are going

Sounds pretty simple right? Put a little thought into where you are travelling and have a plan.  Where are places you can stop and stretch the legs along the way? What places are suitable for toilet stops or where there might be a half decent coffee?  If you need to stop for the night, where can you safely pull over?

Get a good night's sleep before you hit the road

It’s important to be well rested.  You might be sitting behind the wheel but it is very fatiguing.

The general signs of fatigue are:

• yawning
• over-correcting
• taking longer to react
• not caring about things as much
• forgetting the last few minutes
• sore eyes
• blurred vision

Have a good co-pilot

Having someone to talk to and to share the drive makes travelling that much easier.  Switch drivers every two hours.  Being the front seat passenger is not necessarily restful. If you have older children then consider swapping with them for a back seat berth and taking the opportunity while they keep the other driving company.

Avoid the witching hours

Avoid travelling between midnight and 6am and 2pm to 4pm. These are where we have the least amount of alertness with crash researchers discovering that you are between two and six times more likely to be involved in an accident during these times.

Have a plan B

You might over-estimate how far you can travel and need to stop.  Ensure that you build in some fat into any travel plans that allow you to pull over somewhere and get some sleep if you need it.

Don’t push through if things start to get foggy and be aware of the signs of fatigue.

Drink water

Avoid the sugary drinks and stick to water.  You will feel that much better and the regular pit stops will aid in keeping you alert.

Good posture

It’s not just sitting in the right position but ensuring that you are comfortable and not putting any part of your body under stress when in the driving position.

Wear comfortable, loose fitting clothes and don’t forget sun glasses.

Eat right

Stick with lighter meals and snacks.  They are more easily digested and won’t leave you feeling sleepy afterwards.

Power naps

If you are stopping for a little while to have lunch then consider having a power nap.  Research has found even a 10 minute kip can improve alertness for the next hour. Avoid sleeping for more than 15 minutes and don’t use power naps as a substitute for a proper sleep.

The information highway

Your UHF radio is a great way to chat to other road users.  Don’t stay on channel 40 if you want to have a good chat to a fellow traveller, switch to another agreed upon channel.  This is a great way to get valuable road condition updates or even to get the low down on rest stops.

Are we there yet?

Don’t forget to include the kids in your plan.  Ensuring that you have adequate activities to keep them entertained and occupied is critical for a successful road trip.  Plan stops around their needs to run off energy, sleep and eat.

Feel the pressure

Much like sand, mud does not offer much in the way of support to your vehicle.  Lower your tyre pressure to somewhere between 40-60% of your road pressures.  This will provide a larger footprint and maximise traction.

Highway pressures do not cut through the mud (unless the mud is very shallow).

Disable the safety stuff

Turn off stability control.  You will only be moving at low speed and this will cause you more issues than it will solve.

Diffs

Lock the centre diff and if you are driving in a straight line then consider using your front and rear (if you have them) lockers.

Prior preparation prevents ...

If there is going to be mud then you ARE going to get filthy.  Make sure you have a dirty gear bag where you can stick muddy recovery gear after use.  Take plenty of water to wash hands.  Make sure you have the inside of the vehicle “mud proofed” as much as possible.  Consider getting yourself a set of the thicker rubber floor mats that have sides on them (to keep the mud in one place).

If the mud is deep, then consider connecting your recovery equipment prior so that you are not scrambling around in the mud looking for recovery points.

Check the depth

Treat it like a water crossing (because that is what it is).  How deep is the mud you need to cross?  You might need to mark the path across and make added preparations to your vehicle. Consider a tarp across the front (just like a water crossing) and spraying the sparky bits with WD40.

Shallow mud

Pick your lines well in advance and avoid sudden, last minute changes of direction.  Use the highest gear possible with the lowest amount of revs.  The aim is to keep wheel spin to a minimum. You will be either in high or low range.

Use your engine to brake instead of the brakes themselves (if possible) and be very gentle with the steering. Only steer under slight power (not when using your brakes)

Ruts can be your friend as they provide you with a set of “rails” that will keep you going in the right direction.  If they are too deep then consider building them up to suit. Rocks are best (not wood as it gets very slippery)

In the likely event that your rear end starts to slide out, pick where you want to go to and turn the steering wheel towards it.  Apply gentle power (do not use the brake).  Always know where your wheels are pointing.

If you need to climb a steeper slope, look for an alternative route first.  The risk of not making it and then sliding down backwards, uncontrolled, is a very real threat.

If there is no alternative, then ensure that you have picked your line. Prepare recovery gear in case you need to quickly swing into using your winch. Select a higher gear and DON’T let off the throttle.  One of the single biggest reasons for failure at this point is hesitation.  Once you have committed, you are committed.

Prepare for deep mud

These are usually associated with relatively small mud bogs which can be deceptive in their appearance.  They are almost always filled with water.  The problem with the water is that it hides what is underneath.  Many vehicles have suffered catastrophic consequences after their owners thought that they could just drive through a “small” muddy puddle.

Treat them as any other water crossing. Give your vehicle some time to cool down before going through (hot metal expands and then rapidly contracts when hit with cold water) and use that time to check the obstacle.  Poke and prod it until you know what lies beneath and are confident you can get through. The two main factors you are checking is depth and how firm the base is. Check for deeper ruts that may cause you to “bottom out”. Prepare your recovery equipment prior and have someone designated to grab your snatch strap and attach it to the recovery vehicle if it all goes wrong.

Use a tarp across the front of the vehicle and spray the electrical components under the bonnet with WD40 (no, we are not sponsored by WD40)

Check that your windscreen washer bottle is full, you will most likely need it.

If you can’t then DON’T.  Look for another route.

Driving deep mud

Everything is dictated by the obstacle.  The general rule of thumb is easy in, power out.  As you enter the obstacle, the mud and water are going to create a rapidly increasing level of resistance. Gradually increase power to compensate. Rapid quarter turns on the steering wheel will also allow the wheel to “grab” more easily and can prevent some wheel spin.  If fitted, you would engage your lockers. Leave traction control on.

Momentum is life. As long as you are moving you still have a chance of making it through. As soon as you loose forward momentum implement your recovery plan.

Post mud

Make sure you thoroughly clean your vehicle after any mud encounter.  We would recommend going to a wash bay and using a high pressure nozzle.  Don’t leave it too long. As the mud dries out it gets very hard and then starts to corrode what ever it is stuck to.

Give brakes are good wash, around the tyre bead, lights and mirrors (as well as the entire underbody). Check the radiator is not blocked with debris.

Don’t forget to clean and dry out all of your recovery gear. Don’t leave it sitting in the dirty gear bag.

Gravity sucks

Well it doesn’t suck but it has an impact not only the vehicle but everything inside it.  As your vehicle moves onto the gradient of a hill, the weight inside is transferred from either the front or rear axle (depending on your direction of travel).  This has a corresponding impact on the traction of your tyres to the ground.

Hill climbing will result in less front wheel traction, effecting your ability to steer as precisely. There is also less weight on the axle, resulting in “wheel bounce”.

For very steep hill climbs, reducing the front tyre pressure can assist with reducing “wheel bounce” and provides a greater contact patch to the ground.

Prior preparation prevents ...

Like any obstacle, the first step (pun intended) is to walk it.  You want to know if there are any hidden surprises along the way.  What will be the best line to take and are there any potential anchor points if you need to use the winch.  What is the ramp over angle or departure angle like and will your vehicle be able to negotiate it? Where can you park up when you complete the obstacle so you are out of the way? Is there somewhere you can “run-off” into if going down hill and it goes wrong?

Secure EVERYTHING in the vehicle before you commence.  Don’t forget to make sure that your water bottle cannot get dislodged and end up under the brake or accelerator pedal.

Turn off stability control. It has the potential to cost you valuable momentum as the vehicle’s computer tries to “help”.

Going up

You have walked the hill and know what’s in store.  Your gear selection will be based upon this.  Once you have selected a gear, stick to it.  Changing gears when on a hill climb will result in a rapid and immediate loss of momentum – both of which are not beneficial when hill climbing.  If you are driving an automatic use the manual gear selection and choose 2nd.  Depending on the gradient and terrain, you may also need to select Low Range.

Without going overboard, get your momentum going BEFORE you commence the climb and then keep your speed constant.  Stay as straight as possible and ease off the power as you begin to crest the hill.  If you loose forward motion and need to try again, reverse down the hill. NEVER turn around on the gradient.

Coming down

Before coming down a steep descent, walk it to make sure you know what you are getting into.

Slow and controlled is best when coming down a steep descent. Select Low Range, first gear and pick a line that keeps all four wheels on the ground. Stay as straight as you can and keep your speed constant.

If you loose control and cannot stop, it might be better (cheaper and safer) to aim for an immovable object like a tree or rock, to stop your uncontrolled descent than run the risk of a roll-over.  If there are ruts then use them.

Never start a descent in neutral, always under power.

Every descent will be different and the vehicle, terrain and weather will all play a major part.

Let me guess ... tyre pressure?

Yep.  Tyre pressure is more critical than ever.  Your vehicle will be much heavier and you will have further to drive in soft sand. The floatation between 15-20PSI and 20-25PSI will be noticeably better.

With lower tyre pressure comes the risk of de-beading a tyre.  Most of your driving will be in a straight line and at lower speeds, so this is minimal.

Lower pressures will also result in less fuel consumption. Yes, you read that right. Contrary to belief, running lower pressure in sand results in less resistance to move forward, resulting in less fuel use (compared with trying to power through on hard tyres)

Be seen

A sand flag should be standard equipment, especially when travelling in sand dune country. Consider fitting it to the roof rack instead of the bullbar.  This will give you more height and prevent the flag laying over as much when climbing a dune.

Look for a sand flag that can be broken down into pieces, which makes it easier for storing.  The flags with a light at the top are a a bit of a gimmick (as you don’t really want to be driving in sand dunes at night) and not necessary.

Camping checklist

Emergency Contacts

Another useful list when heading out, this PDF has a list of Emergency Contacts.  Print it out and keep it in your glovebox.

UHF Channel List

Make sure you are using the right channel and where you might find someone on “the air”. Another good list to print out and keep in the glovebox.

Personal Medical Information

If you are travelling in a group then it is a good idea to record Personal Medical Information in the event of a medical emergency. The best way to deal with sensitive information is to:

1. Have everyone print out and complete the form, ensuring that they have as much information as possible included in the document.
2. Make a copy of the document.
3. Seal each copy in its own envelope, clearly writing their name and the date on it. (for added security they can sign the sealed section if they wish)
4. Collect all forms and place one copy of everyone’s form into a folder (like a document folder) and the second into a second folder.
5. Nominate two vehicles in your convoy and place one folder in each. Ensure that everyone knows where the two folders are being carried.
6. At the end of the trip, return all sealed envelopes to their rightful owners.

If there are only two vehicles then ensure that you have a copy of your travelling partner’s records and vice-versa.

The envelope is only to be opened in the event of a medical emergency and ONLY at the request of medical professionals or if the person cannot answer for themselves.  The information contained is PRIVATE and CONFIDENTIAL and could be the difference between life and death.

Emergency WA

Emergency WA is a great state government resource that will show you where there are current and active incidents around WA.

Fuel Watch

Fuel Watch is another initiative run by the state government.  Perfect for finding the best price for fuel.